Rosalind Weiss - How to make hats; a method of self-instruction using job sheets - fully illustrated (Как сделать шляпы) [1931, PDF, ENG]

Preface
First Aid to a Good Milliner
(Proper use of tools and materials)
UNIT I
Hand-blocked and Draped Felts and Straws; with Draped Crinoline Models
I. Headsize Band - a Prerequisite for All Millinery
2. Hand-blocked Felt Crowns
3. Hand-blocked Felt Brims - Worked from Edge to Headsize - Straight Seam
4. Hand-blocked Felt Brims - Worked from Headsize to Edge - No Seam
5. Hand-blocked Felt or Straw Brims - Worked from Edge to Headsize - When Brim is Cut and Lapped
6. Hand-blocked Felt or Straw Brims - Worked from Edge to Headsize - When Brim is to be Pleated, and When Block in Not Carved to Indicate Pleats
7. Draped Crinoline Brims - With Crinoline Cut Circular - Pinning the Seam after Draping (Preparatory to Draping Felt or Straw)
8. Draped Crinoline Brims - With Crinoline Cut Circular - Pinning the Seam Before Draping (Preparatory to Draping Felt or Straw
9. Draped Crinoline Brims - with Bias Crinoline (Preparatory to Draping Felt or Straw)
10. Draped Felt or Straw Brims - According to Crinoline Models or Finished Hats
11. Felt or Straw Brims Stretched on Patterns - When Using Flanges from Hoods or Bodies
12. Hand-blocked Straw Crowns
13. Hand-blocked Straw Brims - Worked from Edge to Headsize - Straight Seam
14. Hand-blocked Straw aBrims - Without Seams - Worked from Headsize to Edge
Unit II
FINISHING PROCESSES
15. Measuring, Cutting, and Joining True and Long Bias Strips - A Prerequisite for any Job Using a Bias
16. A Quarter-inch Bias Binding
17. A Quarter-inch Binding - With Ribbon One-half Inch Wide - With Both Selvage Showing
18. A Quarter-inch Binding - With Ribbon Three-quarters Inch Wide - With One Selvage Showing
19. A Circular Ribbon Flange - With Half-inch Belting Ribbon
20. A Circular Ribbon Flange - With One and One-half Inch Belting Ribbon - On a Steel Wire - One a Block - Placed on a Brim or Extending
21. Plain Folds
22. Milliner's Folds
23. A Finished Cord on a Wire - Sewed to a Brim - Suggestions for a Finished Cord on a Cable Cord and for an Unfinished Cord
UNIT III
FRAME MAKING - BRIMS
24. Hand-molded Brims - Bias - On Headsize or on Crowns
25. Making Brims with Patterns
26. Making Brims - Free Hand - Straight
27. Wire Frames - Brims
28. Model Frames - Brims
29. Stretched Brims - Fitted
30. Stretched Brims - Bias
31. Taking a Pattern from a Brim
UNIT IV
COVERING BRIMS
32. Bias Top Facing - Raw Edge - Finished
32. Bias Under Facing - Raw Edge - on a Wire - Slipstitched - in One with Binding
33. Bias Under Facing - Raw Edge - on a Wire - Slipstitched - in One with Binding
34. Steamed Double Facing - Bias - with Suggestions for Using It as a Brim - A Coronet - a Loose Flange
35. Fitted Top Facing - without Seam - Fairly Regular Shapes
36. Fitted Top Facing - with Seam - Irregular Shapes
37. Fitted Under Facing - without Seam - Fairly Regular Shapes - Raw Edge - on a Wire - Slipstitched
38. Fitted Under Facing - with seam - Fairly Regular Shapes - Raw Edge - on a Wire - Slipstitched
UNIT V
CROWNS
39. Steamed Crinoline Foundation Crown - One Piece
40. Cutting Paper Patterns for Vertical Section Crowns - From Tip to Headsize or with Plain Side Crown
41. Vertical Section Crowns - Suggestions for Cording and Making Sectional Tip
42. Steamed Tip - Fitted Side Crown - Suggestions for Cording and Making Sectional Tip
43. Steamed Two-pieced Foundation Crown of Crinoline - On Regulation Block - On Block that is Larger at the Tip than at the Headsize
44. Cutting an Oval Tip Pattern - When Only the Headsize Measurement is Given - When the Diameters of the Headsize are Given
45. Tip and Side Crown - Stitched by Machine - Soft - Not Steamed - Plain - Draped - Even Rows of Stitching
46. Shirred Crowns - On Small Tips - With and Without Wire or Cord - With No Tips - Plain or Full Side Crowns
47. Copying and Designing Crown Patterns for Side-to-side Section Crowns - Suggestions Applied to Any Type Crown
48. Making a Crown with Side-to-side Section Patterns
49. Ribbon Crown with Side-to-side Section Patterns
49. Ribbon Crowns Worked Around - Of No. 16 Ribbon
50. Ribbon Crowns Worked Vertically From Center of Tip to Bottom of Crown - Suggestions for Using Folds in the Same Way
UNIT VI
COLLAPSIBLE HATS
51. Soft Brim - By Pattern - With Even Rows of Machine Stitching - Suggestions for a Louse Flange - Fitted
52. Getting a Shaped Headsize Line on a Block - Preparatory to Making Turbans, or Berets (Tams)
53. Foundations for Turbans or Berets (Tams) - Maline - Taffeta - Crinoline
54. Suggestions for Ribbon Hats
55. Berets (Tams) - The Vertical Section Type - The Tip and Side Crown Type
56. How to Mount Berets (Tams)
57. Regulation Draped Turban
UNIT VII
TRANSPARENT HATS
58. Steamed Maline Brim Over a Wire Frame
59. Steamed Maline Flange - Suggestions for Using Flange as a Brim - Suggestions for Steaming Lace
60. Steamed Maline Crown
61. Hair-braid Brims - Plain and Rolled Edge
62. Hair-braid Crowns - Any Crown Worked from Headsize to Tip
UNIT VIII
STRAW WORK
63. Straw Brims - Sewed Over a Model Frame Using Four- or Five-row Braid
64. Straw Crowns - Sewed Over a Block Using Four- or Five-row Braid
65. Straw Brims Using Woven Braid - Either Over a Pattern, or Model Frame, or Block, or Right on a Frame
66. Straw Crowns of Woven Braid - Ribbon Crowns Worked from the Tip Down
UNIT IX
RENOVATIONS
67. Suggestions for Renovating and Remodeling Hats
UNIT X
LININGS
68.Cap Lining
69. French or Open Lining
70. Ribbon Band or Fold - Used as a Lining (Sweat Band)
APPENDIX
INDEX